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Log Updates
Sitrep: 0700hrs 07 Jan 2005. Bellerive Yacht Club.
Greetings from a still
wintry Hobart. A couple of the jobs we
have had to do have taken a lot longer than we expected and we have now decided
not to leave until Monday. We will
clear Customs at 10.00 and plod down the Derwent later that day.
Huge heap of sails, spares,
food, clothing - and the bicycle, now attached to its stand and generator - all
to be squeezed and coaxed into Berrimilla's very uncavernous interior. A bit like getting an entire shipping container
into a Tarago. We hope to get most of
it in today. The windvane is back on -
thanks for the Christmas present, Kevin - and we will test it tomorrow. We have also insulated the inside with
closed cell foam to help prevent condensation when it gets cold further
south.
We will head for a waypoint
south of
We'll
keep you posted. Thanks for all your
messages in the last few days. Sorry we
can't reply to everyone individually.
Sitrep: 0700hrs 09 Jan 2005.
Bellerive Yacht Club.
We squeezed the shipping
container into the tarago yesterday and there isn't much airspace. Berrimilla's waterline is down to the red
boot-topping so she's heavier that we have ever sailed her by at least a ton. Will be interesting to see how she handles
big seas on the quarter. The forecast
is for WNW 25 -30kts for a week or so after a front goes through on Tuesday so
it should be downhill.
We
have a final rig check today and, subject to that, we clear customs at 10.00
tomorrow and we can go, so it looks as if it may be on. I will try and provide an update as we go
down the Derwent.
Sitrep: 0600hrs 10 Jan 2005. Bellerive Yacht Club but only just .
Thanks y'all.
I've just printed the four
day forecast - don't really know why, cos we're going anyway. Odd feeling - months of planning and fiddly
fixes and paperwork and lists and helpful advice and last minute disasters will
end in a few hours and we will find out if we have got it right. And then nothing to do except look after
Berrimilla, count the albatrosses and write to you lot.
So thanks to everyone who
has helped to get us this far - there are lots of you out there, but especially
Hilary and Jeanne and John and Alex and Steve whose tolerance and equanimity
and planning and fixing genius and general understanding have made it possible.
And thanks for all your messages. Nice to know that there are so many people
who can't wait to wave us goodbye and want to make sure we've really gone. To coin the old cliche once again, we love
youse all and we'll consult the
Sitrep: 1400hrs 10 Jan 2005.
The
Sailing down the Derwent at 6kts with cut down headie
and full main and Stainless Kevvo driving.
Lovely send off with streamers and photos and a drop of the doctor to
fortify the assembled company. Boat
pretty heavy and not much room to move inside but we will get used to it. Forecast looks favourable for a quick trip
across the Tasman, although a bit blowy.
We'll be in touch.
Sitrep: 1600hrs 10 Jan 2005. The Iron Pot.
A phone call from Alex
just rounding the Iron Pot, first sail change, 30knts of breeze, but settling
in well. Off and running.
Sitrep: 1800hrs 10 Jan 2005. 4311S 14737E
I'll send a position once a
day if I can. So far so good. We're towing the generator at 6kts in 25kts
and getting superfluous wiggly amps so i will also keep the pc running.
Sitrep: 2030hrs 10 Jan 2005.
4323S 14802E
Out
past T I and the doctor has been consulted on all your behalfs or is that
behalves. Wind around 30 gusting 40 and
v lumpy sea. All seems to be working so
far. The cliffs along the
Sitrep: 0830hrs 11 Jan 2005. 4347S 14950E
Dank and dismold down here. Grey
and lumpy sea. low cloud and as per forecast - thanks Roger, if you're
watching, 20 -30 from the north. I
think i saw a gust of 53 during the night but me eyes aint that good. Berri seems to be handling it well but it's
pretty uncomfortable inside and no let up for at least another day. Because everything is so tightly stacked in
the boat, we cant get at most of the stuff till we get a bit of an ease. Just a little hump to test the fortitude.
Last night, cloudless, moonless and gerzillions and gigazillions of
stars - not dark at all and almost a horizon.
Pete is just getting into the gear to go on watch - we're going about 3
hours on, 3 off for the time being, but Stainless Kevvo is doing his job so
well and Berri is so well balanced that there's nowt to do except enjoy the
scenery, bleak as it is. Minor problem
with chafe on the steering lines but sortable.
This morning's coffee was almost as good as a catapult launch.
See yez
Sitrep: 1900hrs 11 Jan 2005. 4413S 15112E
Not getting any easier but
Berri handling it well. Now a big beam
sea with breakers and we get caught occasionally. pretty violent motion so everything is a
strain to do. like getting into wwg wot
i'm about to do. We were visited by a
couple of big long line fishing boats at lunchtime, just as we finished our
first day's run - about 164 miles and we're still averaging 7ts or so. In really big albatross country now -short
stubby bodies with about 4 metre wingspan and brownish on top with yellow
beaks.
Just
plugging on...
Sitrep: 2200hrs 11 Jan 2005.
Hi all y'all ive just been
chastised for my grammar but english evolves doesn't it?
thanks for today's crop of
wit and wisdom. particularly liked the
one about deodorant...
We've been reducing sail all
day and now down to #5 and no main in about 50 kts and bigger waves than when
we hove to off eden a couple of weeks ago.
Slowed right down for the night but no stars this time. Poo bum.
listening to radio oz on the HF cos too wet to read or fiddle with
discman.
Sitrep: 0700hrs 12 Jan 2005. 4455S 15251E. 289nm 6.6knts
Bleah. What was it Malcolm Fraser said when he lost his trousers - something about life
not being easy? Out here it's a breeze
man - constant 60 - 75 knots with little lulls to 40 according to the
instruments and it certainly sounds and feels like it. I'm in my party gear, but unzipped and unfastened
wherever possible cos it gets so hot and steamy with the door closed as it
mostly is. still carrying the #5
although rather have the storm jib -too late, alas. this was not supposed to
happen. Berri handling it reasonably
well with NW wind on port qtr hdg about 115 and occasionally getting dumpers
across the deck. heeling about
20deg. Halyards flogging and jib
likewise when the gusts hit. Nowt to do
about it except sit here wedged into the edge of the nav table and write to all
y'all. OK Kim? Shit - that was a biggie. Think I'll make a nice cup of tea and a
cucumber sando. basic problem with that
as a strategy is having to remove most of the party gear to accomplish the
resultant pee. A horny dilemma. oh for a pusser's immersion suit with an
appropriate tube all tied up with a bit of string. See yer kiddos.
Sitrep: 1044hrs 12 Jan 2005. 4454S 15318E.
log back in operation just passed 300m = 1%. wallowing along in big but abating seas at 3kt after the change at 0900. none too soon - this particular geriatric was getting a bit cheesed with poseidon et al. sort them out for us please, all y'all out there. Will try and bore you with more trivia later but may have to be careful with tx time. in case you're wondering why this little elegy is mostly me, pete is keeping a paper journal which i hope will be less trashy than this one. i had intended to do both but at the moment it's all i can manage to keep this one going. Have to go and put some more sail up. yo.
Sitrep: 1800hrs 12 Jan 2005. 4511S 15406E. 343nm 5.2knts
sunshine
and tschnicolour. just a position
report. pottering along at 5 knots with
the orange storm jib and #5 goosewinged.
safe and easy and should be ok for the forecast winds but slower than we
could go. Steve, could you please tell
brian shilland that the cut down #1 he made for us works really well as a
running sail. we had it up this arv
with the 5 on the twin poles and were getting up to 10kts in conditions where
any sort of kite would be impossible.
took it off when spreader height waves started to break over the
stern. fun though. what sort of trivia would all y'all like us
to report? else i'll just keep
drivelling on. pete says hi and thanks
for all his messages. he's beginning to
look a bit scruffy.
Sitrep: 0617hrs 13 Jan 2005. 4525S 15508E.
Having launched myself into a new day with yet another
sail change and some coffee, here goes with some reality. its been a slow old night - sorry Roger -
we've spent the first few days discovering what happens out here and - for me
at least - it needs a bit of a rethink.
slow night becos we got the EGC forecast yest. evening offering 30-40
and (now upgraded to 50) but still some distance away, and didn't want to be
caught out in the dark with twin poles
set and 40 - 60+kts and 10 metre waves up our collective chuff like the
previous night so we took them off and set the storm jib. easy in the harbour, but about 20 minutes of
hard yakka on a pitching and rolling foredeck for two people and very
tiring. lesson one - we won't be able
to cope with sail changes every few hours to keep the boat at close to max
speed. problem is to work out the best
compromise. thinking of various combos to give more variation with less
effort. lesson 2 - the wind patterns at
least at this latitude have been less consistent than i expected. may change as we go south. We don't seem to need to eat - have done
almost no cooking and cant find a lot of the gear anyway, but that will improve
as we get time to poke around in the stacks.
lesson 3 - no really a lesson but more an axiom - wet sails stuffed into
bags take up a lot more room than when
they are neatly flaked by willing or even recalcitrant foredeck
unionists so the front end of the boat is stuffed tightly with fat sails, the
barber-surgeon's two chests, spuds, oranges plywood, the sushi board (an in
joke for those who have sailed in the boat) and all the misc junk we couldn't
find space for down the back. will
improve, but not easy to manage for the moment.
Sitrep: 1105hrs 13 Jan 2005.
4525S 15542E.
competition from 4525 15542 Seaboots are interesting, gregarious and exotic entities that are in
the personal protection business with a busy sideline in organic products. These products are designed to attract
similar entities and knock the living daylights out of anything else that
moves. Anyone who visited the titan
arum [ed: big plant that flowers once a
decade and smells like rotting flesh] in
ps seems its about to blow like stink again in the next 24 hours so may
be a bit busy
Sitrep: 1643hrs 13 Jan 2005.
4541S 15619E. 443nm 5.8knts
Today's trivia - we're just
past half way to the Snares waypoint south of stewart island in NZ. And I've heard the joke about increasing the
total IQ on both sides. Lovely sailing
all day after a shaky start with what looked like a front overtaking us. Forecast for way to the south west is for
50+ from the west so some apprehension but with a bit of luck the worst of that
will pass to the south of us. We had an
anti-scorbutic g&t (the slice of lemon...)and the iodine and quinine for other
agues. The Mary Rose's barber surgeon woulod
have administered it in unmentionable places by large syringe but we managed it
rather more pleasantly.
Slowly sorting out the tip
inside the boat and we think we have a sail change routine that is a bit less
wearing. we'll see.
Even did some washing.
Sitrep: 0934hrs 14 Jan 2005. 4619S 15840E.
Various things - im going to try and do 2 tx per day may be hard to
match your time zone. [Ed:
have been asked by several to describe the wildlife. assume that means outside the boat and not
the ferals in my boots and elsewhere. i
dead cockroach in bilge so far - seems it's too hard even for them. Otherwise all seabirds - far more than i had
expected - always several around, poss attracted by the whizzer we are towing
to drive the aux alternator. first
four:
- brown all over, yellowish beak, looks just like a crow side on but
when it banks the gliders wings are obvious but not as extensive relatively as
the albatrosses. about half to one
metre span, mostly glides sedately.
mutton bird?
- smaller, bright white underside greyish flecks on top except for
trailing edge of squareish short tail over and under which are black, and upper
leading edge of wing also black. black
feet i think, creamy short beak, about 50cm span, shorter wider wings (lower
aspect ratio) and it flaps them.
wonderfully aerobatic in the hollows of the waves. occasionally parks on the water like the
albatrosses.
- similar to above, a bit bigger, with black underside to wings, not as
agile, wings a bit longer. havent had
opportunity to observe more.
- theres a tiny black and white bird with short rounded wings that
almost flaps with its wingtips in the water - havent seen one for a bit but
will try better description if i do
- and for Tom, there was a sleek green spotted double decker bus with
pinkish wings perched on the lower spreader last night in the hazy
starlight. slightly larger mate hovering
over masthead light trying to chat it up.
no purple ephelaunts yet but watching closely for you. i want a piece of the winnings...
still working on the gadget, Siobhan - pete says hi. he's taken off his dinner suit and is giving
all signs of being totally somewhere else.
for the sailors - foredeck routine in these heavy running conditions - storm
jib is permanently hanked on at bottom of main forestay and mostly tied into
pulpit. #4 on a short strop hanked on
above it and can also be tied to other side rail. #5 hanked on outer forestay, and can be tied
in as well. saves continuous packing and
unpacking, v flexible and works for twin poling or pole & main or two sail
work. works as long as foredeck is not
burying and easy to download parked sails if forecast looking pearshaped
because already mostly flaked and can be bagged while still hanked on. Current combo is poled #4 with 3 reefed main
- may change to twin pole with #5 and dump main as wind gets up and pete wakes.
[ed: the higher the number the smaller
the sail, with storm jib being the smallest]
we are talking to Derek @ penta comstat [ed: volunteer long range radio centre for sailing information and
advice on weather] on long range skeds and to Taupo Maritime [ed: ditto] every morning.
Sitrep: 1600hrs 14 Jan 2005.
4628S 15932E. 585nm 5.8knts
More wildlife - birds again,
although i did see a bit of barnacle covered kelp. The little bird is back:
grey/brown on top, fairly even closely flecked, white under but with dark edges
to wings. about 30cm span, darts along
the surface flopping from side to side very fast, wingtips in and out of the
water. too hard to see more detail but really lovely to watch. and another much bigger one, probably an
albatross - yellow beak, brown/grey wings top and under, short stubby body,
feet tucked into rear feathers so invisible, short spear of brown from base of
wing across base of tail on top. hard
to judge span but perhaps 2.5 metres.
lower aspect ratio than earlier Yellow nosed.
I have no idea who is
reading this stuff, so is there anything anyone would like me to write
about? It's going to be a very long
journey. Things that seem vastly
important to us like the next cup of soup are clearly trivial and boring to
anyone else although some sailors have filled whole books with bland detail of
daily life and even sold a lot.
Quick summary so far:
Stainless Kevvo, our Fleming windvane self steering gear, is working splendidly
and steered us through the storm a couple of nights ago without hassle. We both saw 80 knot gusts that night. the desalinator is temperamental but produces
drinkable water and will continue to do so.
Slowly getting into the stacks of stuff inside the boat and
rearranging things. Averaging 5.9 knots and have covered 600
miles in a bit over 4 days. Temperature
ok, water 11 degrees. With a bit of luck,
we'll be at the Snares on Monday. After
that, there's an iceberg at 48s 117w which is more or less on our way. reasonable start, can do better. We're ok, boat's ok, so far so good. end of trivia.
Sitrep: 2000hrs 14 Jan 2005. 4637S 16000E. 606nm 5.8knts
ta. Today we are into small milestones. 600 miles is a minipooptillionth of the
journey but it is about 2% and so a measurable fraction and worth a
consultation with the Doctor. The first
big one will be the Snares. Berrimilla
slipping along well - just the gentle whisper of bubbles passing the hull and
of course, all the little sounds that make up her unique vocabulary. that might be a subject for future
updates. as for bubbles whispering by,
perhaps a stethoscope against a mug of the Doctor might be a reasonable analogy
- must try it.
Sitrep: 0327hrs 15 Jan 2005. 4644S 16057E. 646nm 5.8knts
A 'why is it so'
question: back in my sensible days when
we used to sail back to
We're still hooning along,
slightly below max for cruise mode, with the cut down #1 poled out and 3 reefs [ed: the main sail has rows of holes across
it parallel to the boom which allow it to be shortened in height. That shortening is called reefing. Hence 3 reefs means the main is 3 lowered
(or shortened) by 3 rows of reefing holes]. a bit faster without the reefs, but very
hard to get them back in again if we need to because we would have to get the
pole off first to bring the boat up into wind to feather the main and get the
sail off the shrouds and spreaders.
Impossible to drag it down otherwise against the friction. Major hassle for a couple of decrepit
geriatrics. About two days to
I've been thinking about how
to fill this space and perhaps future updates will offer you I hope non-trivial
things like 'windvane steering', 'balance and getting on the step', 'more
wildlife', 'cooking bread at sea', 'on-board ritual' 'a day in the life of',
'getting into full party gear' and similar guff. Any other suggestions welcome and i'll do my
best.
First wildlife ID - the
little darting bird is probably a Stormy Petrel. And, for
Sitrep: 1610hrs 15 Jan 2005. 4650S 16249E. 723nm 5.8knts
In case propagn improves -
today was a good day - we reefed out everything from the quarterberths and
repacked it so we can find a bit more stuff.
and berri is dry again after the storm.
lolloping along in fading breeze but due to blow a bit more closer in to
nz. so many different seabirds, often
hard to pick subtle differences but saw a black version of the little darting
bird with shorter wings. bootferals in
retreat- threatened them with bleach or even worse, sunlight and they are
considering their positions. no doubt a
treaty will be negotiated. Hi Phil and
RooCroo, hi Kris- keep em coming, pliz.
Sitrep: 0014hrs 16 Jan 2005. (Sydney Time) 4703S 16336E. 758nm 5.8knts
[ed: this log is operating on
Another slightly hazy
starlit night with little wind, but there is a gale warning for NZ area
Puysegur which we are sailing into. Very
impressed with NZ satcom weather service - simple forecasts, easy to interpret
and perhaps even accurate.
Have been listening on CD to
1000 years in a Day - ABC production
b'cast 31/12/99 while we were sheltering in
Thanks for the sunrise
explanation, Don - can we post it for everyone else? [ed: appended to the end of this post] Don't think much of your
experimental verification for ratshit compass - what if the kiwis have decided
they don't particularly like the car park they're in and have started their
engine (powered, no doubt by natural gas from all those sheep) and moved
themselves and their island further north?
Have reached stalemate with
bootferals. They dont seem to mind
bleach - probably consult it like we do the doctor - they are however very iffy
about sunshine but think they have me cornered cos there ain't going to be any
more of that for weeks...
Now using UTC (GMT for us
ancients) and having trouble juggling three time zones in my head.
[ed: The Sunrise Phenomenon from Don Price, CSIRO]:
Dear Professor Sumner Whitworth,
I hope you haven't been inundated by explanations to your
question about the apparent direction of the sun at sunrise in your neck of the
woods.
I can offer two possibilities, which, in keeping with 2005 being
the International Year of Physics, you can test experimentally.
1. Your compass is ratshit, and if you continue on your present
course you will run ashore somewhere up the west coast of
2. It is due to the unfathomable complexities of 3-dimensional
solid geometry. Since you are clearly a man of letters (and very elegant ones
lately) rather than numbers, I will give a simple example rather
than try to explain what can best be explained with a pencil and paper or a
ball. If you were to sail a little further south, to ~67.5 deg. S in
mid-summer, then, as you know, the sun would just touch the horizon at ~
midnight, i.e. sunset and sunrise would occur at the same time. At what bearing
would the sun appear at this time? I think the answer is due south - the S pole
would be directly between you and the sun. With little imagination, you can
guess that as you travel north from this latitude, sunrise will gradually move
eastwards.
The tests you should conduct are: 1 - maintain your present
course and see if you hit NZ, or 2 - take a hard right turn and head for the
antarctic circle and see if the sunrise moves round to 180 deg.
Of course it will be a little more complicated than this. There
will undoubtedly be refraction effects in the damp atmosphere, so an exact
calculation will be difficult, but try one of the simple tests first.
I await the results of your experiments with interest. Keep up
the good work - we're following your progress with interest.
Sitrep: 1438hrs 15 Jan 2005. 4648S 16237E.
great to hear from
conor. propagation ratshit and rx
extremely slow [ed: radio connections
for these log updates] have exceeded limit so short u/d only - sunshine, running
towards nz, making drinkink water as i write.
all ok. a. may try later if improves.
Sitrep: 1546hrs 16 Jan 2005. (Sydney Time)
We are in fog and heavy rain
with distant thunder. Sux knots. Nav
lights on and someone poking a head up every few minutes to check for fishos
and errant sheep in wetsuits. 140 miles to Stewart I. P has just made breakfast - for the foodies,
last night's pasta salad stir fried with egg, bacon and tabasco and a draught
from the home brew cellar to help it settle.
Cordon Berri 5 star.
Todays bird came slicing out
of the gloom low over the water rocking through the waves - at first just a
white disc with eye dots and beak and a half circle pencil line for its
wings. Massive dihedral, body about one
tenth of the arc. Wings absolutely
motionless, tips just off the surface and an image full of purpose. Then it banked away and its underside was
white but with black lines along both edges of the wings. Brownish black on top with white stripe from
base of wings across the tail so front half of tail white. Couldnt judge beak. span about 2.5 metres.
Also black Petrels (?) ta H & K, with diamond shaped tails rather
than the usual squareish with slightly rounded trailing edges.
later. Now 117 miles to S
I. Dank and clammy but no fog, no
rain. Right above the NZ continental
shelf where the depth goes from around 6000 metres in places to about 100 at
SI. About to cross the Solander Trough -
some interesting people have been here before us. Pete snoring happily and I've
just spent a couple of hours on deck planning how on earth I'm going to be able
to keep these updates interesting for the next six weeks or so till the Horn.
That's about 84 episodes of soap - The Bill or Blue Hills. How do people do it?
Some
Hi's: to Olivia - great to hear from you and keep em coming, Kev Pavlich g'day,
likewise Ron C. Conor, where the hell have you been and how did you find us? Hi
Helen. John, Alex and Jane - we're on
to the last curry and the smoked trout was from heaven with pepper, lemon,
tomato and a guinness. Bill R - i assume
your email address means you're still gainfully employed - who's mad?. Hilary,
thanks re xantic, Hi Katherine, hang in there.
Malcolm and Sarau good luck and we'll have a beer at the Horn....
Sitrep: 1751hrs 16 Jan 2005. (SYD) 4732S 16546E.
Hi to everyone out there -
Pete here. its grey with rain and fog
not much wind but at least were heading in the right direction @ about
5kt. not much to do on deck - it's my watch
so i thought some writing would help time pass. Yesterday was a glorious day
sun shining clear blue skies, good, not too cold breeze.
we rearranged the boat below
to give more room and while doing tis a few treasures were discovered eg my new
personal cd player with belt attachment.
It was sundown my watch had just started & i thought a G&T with
fresh lemon would finish the day off nicely so went below. Whitworth had the 'do not disturb' sign out
(lying in bunk with olga's red beanie on rolled well down no eyes
visible). Not being one to drink alone
except when I am alone, 'bugger' i thought.
looking for distraction, i remembered the cd player.
i slipped a disc (bee gees
the early decades v 4)that looked interesting into the sandwich and attached my
two mini subwoofers to my ears covered by my red and then blue beanies and exited the boat looking for a bit of
geriatric disco dancing on the afterdeck.
The first half of the disc was great with the early trafalgar album and
others but later the 'saturday night fever' stuff when the boys decided rubber
bands to the parts would be the answer to their new distinctive castrato style
the beat moved the feet. After some
time i'd had enough - 'i need more floor space' i shouted and dragged the
phones from my ears...silence, the lap of wave against hull, the squeak of rope
through block the only noise. bliss.
@^****! awgh! **&#! awgh!
Startled,
i knew exactly what this distinctive noise was. I had heard it so many times in my youth -
the mating call of the splay footed moorhen.
I looked everywhere but nothing sighted.
what would a flightless bird be doing here i thought. i reembered reading in an old text that british whalers had taken these
birds to south georgia as 'comforters' (what the hell is a comforter) over 200
years could they have cross bred and attained flight or perhaps it was a couple
on their s. pacific honeymoon cruise.
perplexed, and it being the end of my watch, i went below to find a dishevelled and wide eyed alex muttering
about bloody USB gadgets. Cheers Pete
Sitrep: 1830hrs 16 Jan 2005. (SYD) 4732S 16551E.
A little burst on milestones
and where we hope to go. The
So we'll muddle along.
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